The pattern was included in the May 2012 edition of Cosmode, along with some makeup guides for four major characters. The pattern is too hard to reproduce here, but the instructions are easy enough.
Contents
Instruction pages
English annotations have been marked in red for convenience.
Notes
A rough translation of all the stuff before the procedure.
This is a Bustle Jumper Skirt (JSK).
Sizing
- Nominally a Medium size. Hopefully you happen to match the dimensions suggested, as there's no notes about resizing it that I can see.
- 90cm Bust
- 75cm Waist
- 29cm Shoulder width
75cm finished length (from shoulder to hem?)
Materials
Polyester gabardine (148cm width) |
1.4m |
Interfacing? Fusible? (90cm width) |
0.6m |
Hemming tape (12mm width) (bias tape? fusible bias tape?) |
2m |
Invisible dress zipper (56cm long? seems too long) |
1x |
Gold buttons (24mm diameter) |
10x |
Cutting directions
This is not confirmed to be accurate. There are three guide notes as follows:
Something about seam allowances. Seam allowances are not marked. Leave 2cm allowance for the skirt hem, and 1cm elsewhere.
- Something about applying hemming tape. I think this is the orange edges in the diagram below.
- I think this says to overlock all the edges indicated. Which is a lot of them, they're marked with zigzag edges.
Observe the cutting diagram carefully, it demonstrates the seam allowances. The sew-edges are thick lines, the cut-lines are thin.
Some edges don't need a seam allowance, these are shown (the bottom edges of the back and front facing). Skirt hems need 2cm seam allowances, and the gap is visibly bigger in the diagram.
Make sure all the pieces match the markings grain direction on the pattern.
Note that the material is folded to have two edges when cutting-out, each fold marked with a （ワ） symbol. Most pieces are cut on the fold because they're symmetric. You'll need to cut two of each of the frill and belt pieces.
Cut out interfacing
This is unconfirmed. It looks like you're meant to cut out extra pieces of interfacing, but I don't know when you fix them to the real material.
- V-shaped front
- Back yoke (bit that sits on the shoulders)
- Belt (2 pieces, one for each side)
- Rear tab/belt
- Pleat interior (2 pieces, one for each side)
Preparation
- Apply hemming tape along orange edges as shown
- Overlock edges marked with zigzags
- The inset says something about overlocking a dart near the top of the triangle cutout. I have no idea what they're saying
Sewing guide
All good? Okay, all your material should now be cut and treated however it needs to be.
We'll try and follow each step as numbered.
- Sew and attach the belt for each side
- Place right sides together and sew, leaving one end of the tube open. Clip corners.
- Turn tube right way out. Press flat with iron.
- Place tube on wrong side of front piece, sew against outer edge of hole as shown.
- Flip tube around to be on outside of the hole.
- Sew the pleats and princess seam
- Ensuring belt is on "outside", fold along seam+pleat line as shown with right sides together.
- Sew from the dart to the top of the pleat, then baste stitch down the length of the pleat.
- Taper the stitches at the dart to avoid leaving a lump.
- Poke the dart open so it lies flat, press with iron.
- Turn up the hem to the appropriate height (should be the 2cm allowance that you cut).
- Press the hem up with iron.
- Tack some stitches at the top of the pleat as a stopper, then cut the pleat open. The pleat should now be neat and stay in place mostly on its own.